Dear Noli:

We welcome all guests at Topolobampo. But since many have made their reservations far in advance and are celebrating something special, folks tend to dress up a bit more for dinner at Topolo than at Frontera (which is totally casual). But men don't need to feel they should wear a jacket--though you'd fit right in if you did.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear James:

Poblano is the most commonly used large chile in Mexico--used as commonly as our green peppers or even more. It is darker green and more pointy than a bell pepper, and it's typically cooked (fire-roasted) before using, because it's skin is kind of tough (you remove the skin after roasting) and the flesh is much tastier after cooking. It is medium-hot.

Cubanelle is not common in Mexico. When you find it in the United States, it's a yellow-skinned, fleshy chile that seems to go well with more Italian flavors than Mexican ones. The only exception might be the flavors of the Yucatan, where yellow chiles are common and fit beautifully.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Ann:

I have spent the last 16 Christmases in Oaxaca and I can think of nowhere else I'd rather be. The town throws a huge party on December 23 (the Radish Festival) followed by the big parade of parish church floats (calendas) on December 24. There are people everywhere, so you feel totally at home (which isn't the case in most of Mexico at Christmas, where the streets are empty on the the 24th and 25th, everyone being at home with their families).

If you click on "home and away," then on "travel," you'll find my guide to Oaxaca (with a major focus on the restaurants--there's also a wonderful guide, plus other recommendations for great things to do). Hope you have a great time!


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear rudyrocks:
Personally, I'd buy a Mexican hot sauce to use on corn. Lots of vendors do it. My favorite is Tamazula brand, but, if you like a deeper flavor and more sweetness, try Bufalo. If you want to make a sauce like that, I suggest you toast a handful of dried chiles (I like a combination of guajillo, arbol and chipotle) in a dry skillet until they're aromatic--about 45 seconds. Place them in a blender jar with a mixture of half water, half cider vinegar--you'll need enough to almost cover the chiles if they're pretty well packed into the blender. Throw in a couple of peeled garlic cloves and spices if you wish: I like black pepper and Mexican oregano, but some will put in cumin or sweet spices like cloves and cinnamon. Blend until smooth, adding more of the vinegar-water combination if necessary to give your mixture that thickish hot sauce consistency you're after. Season highly with salt and you're ready for some corn.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear John:

Yes, I have been to Tuxpan, but it's been a few years ago. I loved the little bocoles (like little gorditas, split and filled with all kinds of wonderful things) when I was there. And about those "aguas," as they call the drinks, they're wonderful little off-the-cuff delights. You can just put some fruit (mango is wonderful) in a blender with some milk or water and a little sugar (vanilla is optional); blend it until smooth and serve it like a milk shake. In the States, we'd add ice and other things and call it a smoothie. There they call it an "agua," or "water." Watermelon with a squeeze of lime, water and sugar is fabulous. Ditto with canteloupe. I could go on forever. To make the one you like the best, did they only use milk, sugar and vanilla? I've never heard of just that one?


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Chipotle:

Where do you live? If it's in Chicago (or if you have an unlimited budget), we'd certainly consider doing your wedding. In fact, over the last couple of years, we've developed a catering division of our restaurant that I'm very proud of. In fact, we just did a 50th birthday party--complete with an elegant tent, strolling musicians, silver flatware--the works. All brought alive by the traditional fiesta flavors of Mexico!



Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Coco:

That's an easy one: champurrado is the special name that's given to atole made with chocolate.


Sincerely,
Rick

Hi capy,

I used an achiote paste. You can find it in blocks at a Mexican grocery store. This paste if from the Yucatan and comes from annatto (achiote) seeds.


Sincerely,
Rick

Hi Lynne,
Thank you so much for your kind words. I look forward to meeting you on your next visit to Chicago!


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Elizabeth:

Thanks for the note. Actually, I have been to every state in the Mexican Republic. But our shows have mostly featured Central and Southern Mexico. Last season, we also included Guadalajara and the coast around Puerto Vallarta. And the season that will start in January features the Yucatan peninsula. Because of our limited funding (you can imagine: we work on Public Television), we don't get the opportunity to go to as many out-of-the-way places as we'd like (we work with a great--and very professional--crew that numbers 25 when we're shooting in Mexico; the cost and logistics of moving everyone around, as you can imagine, is enormous). We love doing the shows, and we're glad you like watching them!


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear jwhoosier:

You haven't given me much to work with here, nor have I been to any Mexican restaurants in Gatlinburg. Are you sure it wasn't mashed beans? There are yellow varieties (my favorite is one called peruano); they have natural sweetness, but it doesn't taste at all sugary. Sounds like a road-trip is the only way to get to the bottom of this.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Mike:

Thanks for such a nice letter. I went to the restaurant for Chichen Itza restaurant, and I felt like I was in Merida. I could take you to dozens of traditional restaurants in the heart of Yucatan that have almost exactly the same menu. Not having had the opportunity to eat at Chichen Itza, I can't make any claims about the quality of the preparations, but from looking at the photos, it sure looks like the real deal.

Now here's (what I hope you'll consider) the good news: I'm shooting my next television series entirely in the Yucatan. So I'll be showing you how to prepare almost all the dishes on the Chichen Itza menu! Everything but the Kibis, which have become such a traditional part of Yucatecan cuisine that street vendors and markeplace cooks offer them. Did you know that from around 1880 to 1910, there were waves of Lebanese immigration and that a good slice of the Merida population is of Lebanese decent. In the show that I'm doing on the history of Merida (of course, from the perspective of the dinner table), I'll delve into a lot of the details.

The one trip I do that's open for to the public--though you have to be a real foodie to land a place on it--is offered through the Culinary Institute of America, the first week of March each year. It's Mexican food intensive, aimed at culinary professionals, that this year will explore the cooking of Mexico City, Puebla and Tlaxcala. Go to http://www.prochef.com/wof_travel/oaxaca.html for more details.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Mark:

Thanks so much for your comments. It's sad that Mexican food in the United States has become so narrow, mostly focussed on the rich stuff like cheese enchiladas, nachos and dishes from the fryer. The old-fashioned stews with all the vegetables and chiles have almost disappeared ... except in Mexico. When you add an endless supply of sour cream, soda pop and video games to the rich food, it's no wonder the kids aren't as healthy as they could be. I hope that through my writing and shows, we'll be able to encourage some of the kids and those who are bringing them up.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Charisma:

Here's the recipe: Chop up 3 ounces of Mexican chocolate (you should have about 2/3 cup--Ibarra and Abuelita brands are common in well stocked groceries and Mexican markets). Put it in a blender with 2 cups milk, 1 1/2 cups water, 1/3 cup sugar and 1/3 cup masa harina (the powdered masa that's used to make corn tortillas). Blend until smooth. Pour into a medium saucepan, set over medium-high heat and whisk constantly until the mixture boils and thickens. (It should be the consistency of heavy cream--if it's too thick, add a little more milk.) You'll have enough to serve 4 to 6 people a cupful.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear David:
To make a great cochinita pibil, you don't just dig a hole in the backyard. (You'll see all this first-hand on the Fifth Season of our television show--Mexico-One Plate at a Time; airing starts at the beginning of 2007.) First you buy a pan that will hold your pig comfortably. Then dig a hole that will give you about a foot all around and about a foot of head room. Line the pit with bricks, then build a raging fire in the pit--letting it burn for several hours (I'd do it for a couple of days running if this is your first time using the pit or if the ground is cool). Let the fire (it should be big enough that you'd call it a bonfire) burn for several hours, then let it burn to embers. While the fire is turning to embers, cut the pig into large (primal) cuts: head, shoulders, loin sections, fresh hams, trotters. Marinate everything generously with a mixture of achiote paste, lime (or sour orange) and salt. Line the pan with banana leaves, lay in the pork, drizzle with marinade, pour in 1 inch of water), cover with banana leaves, and lower it into the very hot pit (it should be about 800 degrees at this point). Cover the pit (I use a steel plate, but you can use corrigated metal), cover the whole thing with dirt, sealing the edges completely. Now wait: usually about 6 hours for a 40-pound pig, then unearth the whole thing. I usually like to remove the meat and, while I'm pulling it off the bone, I boil down the juices. You'll never forget it. And don't forget the pickled red onion and roasted habanero salsa (kut).


Sincerely,
Rick